WESTERN AUSTRALIA - KIMBERLEYS
FRIDAY 3 OCTOBER
Set off a bit late after shopping (AGAIN) in Katherine and sending off Betty G’s insurance papers to Ken Tame, the Insurance Brokers. When we arrived at our next stop, Timber Creek, we pulled into a garage forecourt and I went into the pub to book into the caravan park. Very funny guy behind the bar said that there were in fact 2 sites – one with grass and a sunny pool and the other with plenty of shade all over. Of course we opted for the shady one, pulled in, and there were Karen and Geoff in their Mazda bus. We set up next to them and headed for the pool. A little bit later Malcolm and Sheila arrived. The evening’s entertainment at this site was the feeding of the freshies (freshwater crocs) in the creek at the back of the site. These don’t jump like the salties, are smaller and far less aggressive. People came from the other site as well including the nice German couple we’d been next to at the Kakadu Aurora site. That night we were kept awake by a bird that Karen reckoned was a currawong, but I’ve since found a description in our bird book which actually fits a Common Koel – so I don’t know who’s right. All I know is that the flippin’ thing kept calling all night long. The locals even tried setting off fireworks to persuade it to go away as it had apprently been there for 5 nights already. Did it go away – wot do you think!!!
SATURDAY 4 OCTOBER
We left fairly early, heading for Kununurra. Within a couple of Ks Jeff noticed that the speedometer was no longer working – no more mileage checks until we can get it fixed. As we arrived in Kununurra we saw a sign for a garage sale so we entered the address into TomTom and Tommo led us right to the house. Not very much there, but Jeff bought a cookbook (Potatoes!!) for a dollar. As we returned to the main road I thought I should call Karen and Geoff to see if they’d arrived and if they’d found a site. I was just leaving a message on Karen’s phone, and what did I spot tootling down the road – their Mazda bus. Jeff called them up on the CB, just in case they didn’t see us, and Geoff said that they had just looked at a site, but it didn’t have a pool. However he knew of another Big 4 site just up the road. Jeff keyed the address into Tommo and off we went with the others following close behind. The site looked very well-kept, if a little pricey, but we opted for 2 nights as Betty G needed an oilchange and service and we couldn’t do anything about that until Monday. We did a little food shopping, returned to the park and headed for the pool. I was wrong about the tempertaure before – it’s been over 40C in the last couple of days, and at one time hit 50C!! The pool was a wonderful relief – so refreshing. The park is full of birds – honey-eaters, magpie larks (including one with a poorly foot that stayed with us for ages – we tried to catch it so that we could possibly help it – couldn’t manage it), pheasant coucals, doves, ibis and many more. There was one bird that sat in a tree above Betty G for hours on Sunday and reappeared on Monday. It looked a bit like a kingfisher – maybe a female as it wasn’t very brightly coloured, but it was difficult to tell from below.
SUNDAY 5 OCTOBER
Thought we’d have a drive around K. but as it was Sunday, everything seemed to be shut, including the Tourist Information Office. So after trying to find the local brewery (BG) we headed back to the Park and the pool. Met a nice English couple, Marion and Terry, who now live in South Queensland.
MONDAY 6 OCTOBER
Eventually found someone to do an oil change and service on Betty G but he couldn’t fix the speedo cable. We finally set off for Wyndham at about 11am. I’m not sure what we expected but Wyndham ain’t eggzackly impressive. We drove around for a bit and then decided to visit the Crocodile Farm – I’m glad they only charged us $10 each (we’d missed the guided tour) instead of $16.50 coz it wasn’t even worth 10 bucks. The whole place looked run down and the poor crocs were either in very small enclosures, considering their size, or in a couple of lakes which were covered in green algae. We then had lunch at the pub – a very nice barramundi basket washed down with a lovely drink that we’ve recently come across – lime and lemondade with a dash of Angastura bitters. We then carried on our way.
As we passed a campsite at Doon Doon I spotted Karen & Geoff’s disctinctive bus, so Jeff called them on the CB. “Nice site but no pool” was their comment so we said that we would carry on to the next likely stopping place, Turkey Creek (Warmun) which had a pool, plus a rather large Brahmin bull wandering across the highway and into the campsite. Then a small herd of Brahmins appeared but were soon sent on their way by a bloke in a ute (aka. utility vehicle – a small truck). Had a much needed dip in the pool in the company of a young couple who were working there, but off-duty at the time, and their daft dog, who wouldn’t go in the water, but wanted to play anyway. Spent a relaxing evening doing very little. During the night the heavens opened and we had to get up and shut all the windows – we can leave them open most of the time because of the mesh and steel insect-cum-security screens. The rain lasted about an hour and by morning there was very little sign of it – just a few puddles in shady areas.
TUESDAY 7 OCTOBER
Left early this morning as we have decided that it is the best time of the day for travelling in this heat. After an hour or so we spotted a 4WD in a parking area with its hood up. As we drove past we noticed that the driver looked a little stressed. So Jeff turned round and pulled in alongside the vehicle. This of course was in the middle of nowhere, stinking hot already. We asked the driver if he needed any help and he said that his fuel pump was not working properly. He’d cleared the fuel line, but fuel still wasn’t getting through. Jeff said that he was sorry but he couldn’t help – it was a fairly new car and they can be pretty tricky to fix if you don’t really know what you’re doing. I noticed that as well as his wife(?) there was a little toddler in the back. We could get no signal on any of our phones – his or ours and our call out on the CB was ignored so we said that we would go on and try to get them some help. As luck would have it, about 5Ks down the road there was a roadgang working alongside the highway, so Jeff pulled in, went to the site office, explained the situation and asked if there was a mechanic who could help. The foreman said that he was actually expecting a mechanic to arrive within the next halfhour who he would send back to help. Our good deed for the day done, we went on our merry way.
We had thought about stopping at Hall’s Creek, but we weren’t terribly impressed. I went into the Tourist Information Office and the very helpful lady there said that there were a few interesting places and a couple of good campsite that could be reached along Duncan Road – bitumen for a couple of Ks then dirt road “but OK for 2WDs”. We duly tootled along Duncan Road and then came to the dirty part. I took one look ad said “No way!!”, but Jeff said “Let’s just try it” Well poor Betty G was shaken sommat rotten. The ruts on dirt roads in Oz don’t run along the road as any self-respecting rut should, but they go ACROSS the roads – these are known as ‘corrugations’ – if you can imagine driving across a very long sheet of corrugated iron you might have some idea. After about 5 yards (sorry – metres) Jeff admitted defeat carefully turned around and returned to the Highway. We filled up with diesel, said bye bye to Halls Creek and headed for Fitzroy Crossing. We arrived there at about 3:30 and entered the Fitzroy River Lodge - it had been recommended to us by a guy near us at Kununurra. As we drove around the site looking for a nice shady spot, this couple sitting outside their caravan waved at us enthusiastically. “How nice and friendly” I thought. We found our spot in the shade, set up and headed for the pool – as usual. It was a bit of a trek without much shade, but we gratefully sank into the cool water when we eventually got there (cool??? – it wuz bluddy cold actually). A few minutes later, who should arrive but Terry and Marion who we had chatted to in the pool at Kununurra – they were the ones who had recognised Betty G and waved so enthusiastically. We arranged to have drinkies at their place before dinner and trudged back to Betty G. We then spent a delightful couple of hours chatting before returning to our little home on wheels to eat.
WEDNESDAY 8 OCTOBER
Went on a boat trip through the Giekie Gorge this morning with Marion and Terry. We probably wouldn’t have gone it they hadn’t offered us a lift as the Gorge is about 17K from the campsite. Driving in the luxury of their Landrover with it’s A/C was great – soooo civilised<BG> Wonderful experience – gliding along the Fitzroy River through the lovely Gorge with its fascinating rock formations, birds, freshies and plants. Back to the campsite – another swim and drinkies again before dinner – ooh it’s a hard life.
THURSDAY 9 OCTOBER
Left early again to get well under way before it got too hot. Called in briefly at Derby (pronounced DERby, not DARby like wot we Poms do). Not too much to see, so we just filled up with fuel and carried on to Broome. Poor Betty G had to go off-road for about 6-7 Km due to roadworks – most uncomfortable. Four road trains coming the other way – three did the right thing and slowed down, but one driver just carried on oblivious to anyone travelling in the opposite direction, chucking up dust and stones as he careered past. Jeff tried to send him a few choise words over the CB, but he didn’t have it switched on – dipstick!!
We stopped at the Roabuck Roadhouse for lunch and saw a great column of smoke rising from the nearby bush. Nobody at the Roadhouse seemed to be at all bothered, so I guess it was quite a normal occurrence. Pretty impressive though.
We carried on the Broome, and as we approached a Woollies supermarket, who should we see but Karen and Geoff. We had a brief chat with them and found that they were staying at the Cable Beach Resort, so with did our shopping and joined them there. This resort is pretty big, around 500 sites and the pool closes at 6pm – not much good to us as we arrived at about 5:30!!
We stayed overnight and when Karen and Geoff left the following morning to head on down the coast we left and went to the Palm Grove Resort – quite a bit smaller and the pool stayed open til 7:30. We pulled in alongside Marion and Terry and once we were set up, headed for the pool.